T34 engine trouble #12
Detail Painting
To continue tying all the previous steps into a more solid colour again, I sprayed the whole model with a few filters. The filters were made from Humbrol paints and enamel thinners. Only a small percentage of paint is used, which makes the thinners appear dirty, rather than having a thinned paint. This step also dramatically reduces the gloss effect after using Johnson Klear in the previous step.
To paint wood, I usually paint a sandy yellow colour first using Humbrol, and when dry this is re-painted with burnt umber or burnt sienna oil paints. This is left for about an hour to stain the under-coat, and is then mostly brushed off using a dry clean brush. When there is a flat surface like tool handles, the grain is scraped into the colour using a tooth pick, allowing the base yellow colour to show through again. A nice wood grain affect can be achieved with a little practise. When dry, a light wash with thinned black or grey will tone the bright oil colours down and give a natural wood colour/affect.
The remaining details are painted with Humbrol paints. When silver or gun-metal colours are used for metal, some brown or black are blended in to give a more realistic result. Some tidying up was done on the wheels and tracks, although this is largely un-necessary, as the weathering will take care of any light over spray from the first steps. Some black pin-washes were also used to define details a little better.
When detail painting was finished, another black filter was sprayed over the whole model to again tie the details in place. This gives everything the same hue, and makes the newly painted fixtures look like they have been on the tank for a while. The next and final step in the process will be weathering.
7 Responses to “T34 engine trouble #12”
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Hi Frank,
Nice pics and model, thanks for describing your methods. Are you tightly spraying the rims of the road wheels then touching up the over spray on the tires with a brush? I wield a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity brush in my work and I’m sure the over spray could be very restrained.
Ryan
Hello Ryan.
Thanks for dropping in and also for your kind comments. In part # 10, this is described. I spray paint the whole wheel/tyre with black first, and then just shoot the middle or hub area with the base colour. Any overspray on the tyre area, can be touched up easily with a brush. Hopefully this answers your question .. if not … just ask. I use a H&S evolution, and when care is taken it is indeed very restrained and makes painting a fully built tank possible in the way I´ve shown. Cheers
Whoops sorry must have missed that part of the build.
Yes, thanks for the reply…..I’m itching to attach the wheels and skirts to the Abrams I on right now @ my site and, just paint the thing all at once.
The thought of masking each wheel is insane to me when there is a perfectly good edge to paint to on the rim. (and the H&S to pin point spray the rim)
Plus poly caps don’t really provide a ”true” attachment solution, they will still wobble around pointing to each corner of the compass!
Ryan
Ryan
Happy Birthday, Frank!
/Hasse
Thanks Hasse. Now Im officially a ”Gubbe” (40).
Its now OK to sit at home, head sunk in a book or box of plastic, and some +1 reading glasses at the end of my nose. Must get a pair of soft slippers to complete the look!
Haha, ouch: I’m actually sitting here now with +2 reading glasses, soft pants (”mysbyxor”), feet in furry slippers! I’m nearing 50 now, way too fast…
/Hasse
Of course … mysbyxor are a very important part of the uniform! Ha ha.